Interpreting Elizabethan Hair

In order to develop a fuller understanding of Elizabethan hair, I have pieced together a collage of several images that I feel reflect the ideas behind Elizabethan hair. 

I have collected the images according to a quote describing and mocking Elizabethan hair, written by Alchin L.K. 

"Then followeth the trimming and tricking of their heds in laying out their hair to the show, which of force must be curled, frizled and crisped, laid out on wreathes & borders from one eare to an other. And lest it should fall down, it is underpropped with forks, wyres, & I can not tel what, rather like grim stern monsters, than chaste christian matrones. Then on the edges of their bolstered heir (for it standeth crested round about their frontiers, & hanging over their faces like pendices or vails with glasse windows on every side)"

As you can see I have cut the quote up, for each description I have prescribed an image that I think illustrates the idea. 

I imagine that all the images combined would create the perfect image of the quote - large frizzled curly hair adorned with jewels in the shape of a crown sitting on the top of the head. An image that struck out to me was the use of the word 'wreathes', it remind me of christmas wreathes adorned with flowers and ivy, hence, I imagine the shape of the hair would be in the shape of a wreathe, instead, adorned with jewels of gold and silver. 

I have added some Elizabethan details to the contemporary image I have chosen to describe the word 'smart'. I have added tried to relate to the quote above by adding certain features.

On the right is the original image that I have worked on. I printed the image on A4 card and worked over the top with colour pencils, pen and white paint.

The image at the bottom is the final outcome, I feel that I have created a contemporary Elizabethan look.

I have added volume and shape at the top of the head like elizabethans, and pearls to adorn the hair. The rich red colour was also extremely desirable for elizabethan ladies. I think the contemporary aspects of this look is the ponytail at the back and by using simpler shapes.

Blowdry

Available from:www.fitmomsinthecity.com
Last accessed: 20 Oct 2013

In this hair practical, I was shown how to blow dry hair and tried it out myself. 

I followed the following procedures: 

Note: Before you start styling hair or any procedure, you must do a short consultation. You must examine the hair quickly, making note of the type of hair you are about to work with, such as length, thickness, colour and the overall healthiness of the hair. This will tell you if the person you are about to work on is suitable for the styling you require and how you can go about treating the hair e.g low heat settings/serum. Whilst doing the consultation, you must also be aware of any hair diseases the model might be carrying, if the hair disease is contagious, you must not work on that model. 

1. Consultation

2. Wash hair 

3. Use the hairdryer to remove excess water, but keep the hair damp for the for the blowdry. 

4. Decide where you want the parting to be. 

NOTE: It is easier to find the parting or create a new parting when the hair is damp.

5. Put the required product in e.g heat defence/mousse. Again, make sure the hair is not too wet, if the hair is too wet you will not gain the full product potential. 

6. Section hair starting at the bottom, smaller sections are easier to manage. 

7. Use a round brush with a metal hollow centre, the metal in the centre heats up as you're drying the hair and will shape the hair better. 

8. Blowdry in a downwards motion ad in one direction, blowdry in the direction you want the hair to sit. Use appropriate force but do not tug the hair as it may stretch the hair and cause breakage. 

NOTE: Treat each section of hair as an individual piece of hair, paying as much attention to each section as the last. 

9. Make sure you pay close attention to the roots of the hair first, as no matter how much volume and lift you create, if the roots are still damp, the hair will sag - it will not stay in the desired volume and lift that you have created. 

10. Don't forget the ends, the ends are normally the driest part of the hair, so pay close attention to split ends, if necessary, use a lower heat setting. 

11. When you have created the desired effect, use the cold setting on the hair to set it. 

12. If necessary, you can add more style by using straighteners/hair wands etc. 

13. Finish off with hairspray, to maintain the shape. 

For this practical lesson, I worked on my friend Amy: 

Consultation notes: 

• Long hair with bangs 
• Naturally straight 
• Thin and colour damaged 
• Dry ends and and hair breakage
• No known hair disease

After i washed Amy's hair and removed all the excess water, before I began the blowdry process I applied serum to the lower ends of her hair, this will achieve a glossier effect and help moisturise the ends. 

My aim was to create as much volume at the top of the head as possible, however, since it was my first time blowdrying hair, I found it difficult holding the hairdryer in one hand and the round brush in the other and my arms soon got tired repeating the same motions. As Amy has thin hair, I found it difficult to create a lot of volume. At this point, I would have added some Batiste XXL volume dry shampoo, but sadly I didn't have any to hand.  

Here are before and after pictures.  

Before

After

I am not happy with the fringe, I thought it was at an awkward length as the model is growing her fringe out but I could have shaped it better with a straightener afterwards to frame the face better. 

Hair Wash

Available from thebeautyshop.com (8th Oct 2013) 

Before you style any hair, you need to make sure that the hair is clean. 

Hair is always exposed to the elements and carries much dirt, grease and bacteria. In order for the hair styling process to be executed smoothly, hair needs to be fresh and clean. 

Before you wash the model's hair, do a quick consultation. You should examine the following: 

• colour
• length
• thickness
• shape
• Is the hair colour treated? 
• Is the hair damaged? 
• Ends of the hair
• Direction of hair growth 
• Hair problems, e.g. head lice, dandruff

It is important to quickly analyse the hair before washing it because you can see how the hair naturally falls and get a better idea of how you would go about styling it later on, you will be aware of the condition of the hair, if the hair is colour treated or damaged, you will know to apply a lower heat setting when styling it later on. 

If you find that the model has severe hair problems such as head lice, which is infectious or psoriasis on the scalp, you cannot work on them. However, hair problems such as dandruff and alopecia can be worked around.

Once you are happy with the results of the consultation you can wash the hair. 

1. Put a waterproof cape on the model and towel over her shoulder to prevent excess water soaking through his/her clothes. 
2. Sit model down by the hair basin and make sure she/he is comfortable.Make sure all the hair is swept to the back and hangs into the basin. 
3. Turn on the water, test the temperature of the water on the back of your wrist, when you feel like its right, start wetting the hair. Ask the model if the water is too hot or too cold. 
4. When the hair is fully wet, start shampooing, if the model has thicker hair, use more shampoo, if thin hair, use a smaller amount. DO NOT SCRUB THE HAIR between your hands as this may pull the hair as this may be uncomfortable for the model and it will matte and tangle the hair. Instead use gentle circle motions and remember to massage the shampoo by the scalp and behind the ears.  
5. When you have created big bubbles and foam with the shampoo, you know you have done it correctly and you can now rinse the shampoo out. Since you will be shampooing the hair again to make sure the hair is extra clean, you do not need to pay too much attention. 
6. Make sure you use one hand to cup the forehead to stop droplets of water running down the model's face. 
7. Once you have rinsed, shampoo hair again. 
8. Rinse, make sure all of the shampoo is rinsed off. An itchy scalp can be triggered if the shampoo is not entirely washed out. 
9. Condition the hair. Now you can start to condition the hair, focus the conditioner at the ends of the hair as the ends tend to be dryer and more damaged. Conditioner hydrates the hair. 
10. Rinse conditioner out, make sure all the product is rinsed out. 
11. Squeeze out the water from the hair 
12. Comb though the hair gently, starting with the ends, working up. Make sure not to force the comb though the hair as it may stretch the hair and cause breakage. 
13. You are now finished.

You may want to dry the hair before you start styling it:

• Always use a nozzle when using a hairdryer, it enables you to direct the heat and dried hair much quicker. 
• The back of the hair dryer sucks hair in, so make sure that end stays away from any hair. 
• Keep moving the hairdryer, if you keep it in one place, you will burn the model's scalp. 
• With the one hand, keep moving the models hair, by running your fingers through the hair, you are directing heat onto a larger surface area, thus the hair dries quickly. 
• Start with the roots of the hair. 
• Always finish with the cold setting as this sets the hair. 

                                                                                                                             

Hair Brief Intro - 'Redheads and Royalty'

I have been given the hair brief ' Redheads and Royalty' - the focus is on collating historical research and technical observations of hair used in the 16th and 17th century.

Image - www.milesalridge.com 2013   

I need to consider the hair styling identified in paintings from the Elizabethan Era, but also acknowledge that certain hair styles used by Elizabethan women had references to their age, class and status. 

My aim is to research all the ideas and techniques behind Elizabethan hair develop my own techniques and my own style in recreating the Elizabethan image, and finally producing the final contemporary look. 



My objectives: 

• Acknowledge studio safety and hygiene. 
• Learn about the historical contexts and cultural value relevant to the fashions in period and contemporary looks. 
• Develop an awareness of research as the basis of creative design development.
• Establish the relationship between research, design and realisation required for a successful project outcome. 
• Develop photography skills to capture image. 
• Develop key transferable skills in communication, collaborations and negotiation. 

That's so Elizabeth.

Heloísa Teixeira. (2012). Elizabethan Hair .
Available: http://elizabethantrinkets.tumblr.com/page/3.
Last accessed 7th Oct 2013.

During the Elizabethan Age, the Elizabethan hairstyles were led by Queen Elizabeth - upper class women would follow her lead and did everything to look like her. 

It was most important for Queen Elizabeth to maintain her image and the beauty of the 'Virgin Queen'. 

The Elizabethans idea of the perfect women was one with a snow white complexion and fair hair, complemented with red cheeks and red lips. Queen Elizabeth had naturally red hair and it was seen as a sign of royalty and nobility. Some women would even dye their hair yellow using a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil. Wigs and hair pieces were also commonly used to achieve the ideal look. 

Elizabethan hair was designed to compliment the elaborate outfits, ruffles and collars were extremely fashionable and this meant that the hair was normally worn swept up and away from the face for women and kept short for men. 

During the time, the long flowing hair of a girl was a sign of a virgin, when she married, she would wear her hair up. the hair would be combed away from the forehead and a large forehead was extremely favoured.

During the Elizabethan era pamphlets were printed and distributed commenting on life in Elizabethan England. 

During the Elizabethan era, pamphlets were printed and distributes commenting on life in Elizabethan England. He was a strict Elizabethan Puritan and held firm views on any social practices which he thought was unfitting. He named his work 'The Anatomie of Abuses' in which he strongly criticised many of the fashions in the elizabethan era.

'"Then followeth the trimming and tricking of their heds in laying out their hair to the show, which of force must be curled, frizled and crisped, laid out on wreathes & borders from one eare to an other. And lest it should fall down, it is underpropped with forks, wyres, & I can not tel what, rather like grim stern monsters, than chaste christian matrones. Then on the edges of their bolstered heir (for it standeth crested round about their frontiers, & hanging over their faces like pendices or vails with glasse windows on every side) there is layd great wreathes of gold and silver, curiously wrought & cunningly applied to the temples of their heads. And for feare of lacking any thing to set foorth their pride withal, at their heyre, thus wreathed and crested, are hanged bugles, ouches, rings, gold, silver, glasses , & such other gewgawes and trinckets besides, which, for that they be innumerable, and I unskilfull in wemens terms, I cannot easily recount." (Alchin, L.K Elizabethan Era, www. elizabethan-era.org.uk) 

Here are a couple of images that I feel realistically reflect the hairstyles of the golden age. 

As you can see the hair is strictly pulled away from the face creating the illusion of a larger forehead - a large forehead symbolised intelligence.

Wealthier women would adorn the hair with jewels, and lace, making themselves look even more superior. 

I feel that Elizabethan hair has much more structure than the way is presented today. Hair in Elizabethan times signified wealth, status, power. Certain hairstyles were only for the royal. 

'One must dress to suit but not exceed their rank.'

- Queen Elizabeth I

Below are two looks, worn by models on the McQueen Runway, as you can see some aspects are definitely inspired by the Elizabethan look, such as the fair skin and light eyebrows. The hair has shape reminiscent of Elizabethan hair but appears loose and messy, giving the entire look a twist. I love the edgy vibe that is created, when you look at the images it feels like Elizabeth is reborn into the new age. 

These photos inspired me to try recreating the extreme  elizabethan volume at the top of the head. This is the contemporary look that I came up with: 

As you can see, I tried to capture the essence of the large structured hair which was present in the elizabethan era. To create fake volume, i first applied dry shampoo to my hair and backcombed, then I moulded tissue into crescent moon shapes and placed them underneath the hair, I then pulled hair over the shape I created and pinned it tight behind the head. Then to secure the shape even more, I heavily used hairspray and combed the hair into place, covering the tissue. 
I didn't accessorise the hair and kept it plain and let soft curls tumble down past the shoulders as I feel that it would create a softer, more romantic look which represented innocence and purity , which is similar to how Queen Elizabeth wore her hair at the start of her reign, especially when suitors were being sought after. 

I have juxtaposed the innocent and elegant hair with sharp bold makeup and a playful expression to reflect Queen Elizabeths restraints, she was not allowed to be herself, she was the Queen and had to act as a responsible leader. 

(Photographer: Rhys Holmes)

Also, Alexandra McQueen is bring back the Elizabethan aura with these restricting frocks, this fall - fierce. 

'A woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life' 

-Coco Chanel-

We all know that hair is very precious to us, the right haircut can completely transform the way we look and the way we feel. When we style our hair, we are always considering how the hair falls into place, how much product we need to style it and if the style we are trying suits our face shape, bone structure, body proportion, lifestyle and personality. The perfect hair however, is all about the way it makes you feel and also how you want to present and express yourself. 

There are many words that can describe hair, I have been given two words to explore: 

'SMART'

Photo Source: Vogue (How-to: A sleek ponytail in sex steps)

This is a hairstyle that I would definitely describe with the word 'smart', I think a sleek ponytail is a default hairstyle you would wear to a professional affair: where looking smart is required. Rocking a tidy chic ponytail immediately gives you intelligent points, the hair is pulled back strictly away from the face and it gives you the freedom to do whatever you wish. When having your hair pulled back, your entire face is exposed, which gives people an impression of confidence and shamelessness.

'WILD'

Source: Stumblr (Travel stories and pictures 2013)

http://stumbler.org/hair/colorful-but-elegant-hai

If you asked for an example of wild hair, most people would present you an image of frizzy unkept afro warrior hair from the stone age, but the word wild can be interpreted in many different ways. 'Wild' could be something uncontrollably magnificent and beautiful. I would describe the image above as wild because her hair has the most beautiful blend of colours and curls, depicting a mad spiral of dimension. When looking upon the image I feel that not only she has truly mad locks but I also imagine her personality to be wild to complement the look.